How to install a stair runner with rods

Fitting a runner with rods is two jobs done in order: fit the runner so it is secure on its own, then dress it with rods. Most problems — a runner that creeps, rods that sit at different heights, brackets that pull out — come from blurring those two jobs together. This guide covers a straight flight. Winders and landings are covered at the end.

Tools and materials required for the job

Preparing the staircase surface

Remove old carpet, gripper, staples and nails, and check every tread for movement or creaks; fix those now, because the runner will hide them. Sand any raised edges and finish the visible timber margins before the runner goes down — painting or varnishing around a fitted runner is much harder. Vacuum thoroughly so grit does not sit under the pads. Our guide to preparing stairs for a runner goes into more detail.

Measuring and marking the centre line

Find the centre of each tread, not just the top and bottom, and mark it lightly in pencil. On older stairs the treads are rarely identical, so a line snapped from top to bottom can drift off-centre halfway up. Mark where each edge of the runner will sit as well, so you can check the margins are even as you work.

Installing grippers and underlay correctly

If you use tack strip, fix a length on each tread with its pins pointing towards the riser, leaving a gap from the riser slightly smaller than the thickness of the runner so the material can be pushed down into the crease. Some fitters add a strip at the foot of each riser too. Cut an underlay pad for each tread: it should sit between the gripper and the nosing and wrap over the nosing, but stop short of the runner edges so it never shows. If you are stapling rather than using gripper, fix the pads with a few staples and keep them clear of the crease.

Fitting the runner: the waterfall method

Start at the bottom riser with the pile running down the stairs. Fix the end square to the bottom riser, then run the runner up and over the first nosing and let it fall straight down to the next crease. Push it into the crease with the stair tool and fix it. Pull it taut up to the next crease and repeat. Check the centre marks every two or three steps.

Fitting the runner: the Hollywood method

The Hollywood (or French cap) method follows the shape of each step. The runner wraps tightly around the nosing and is fixed underneath it, then runs down the face of the riser into the crease. It looks more tailored and suits rods well, but takes longer and uses slightly more material. See waterfall vs Hollywood for a side-by-side comparison.

Securing the runner with staples and bolsters

Whichever method you use, the crease is where the runner is held. Drive it firmly into the crease so it engages the gripper, then add staples hidden in the pile if needed. A runner fitted this way should not move when you push it forward with your foot — test every step before you think about rods.

Marking the bracket positions for rods

Hold a rod in its brackets against the crease to see where the brackets naturally sit. Cut a card template that sets the gap from the runner edge to the bracket, and use it on every step at both sides. Mark the screw holes through the bracket. A template matters more than careful measuring: it guarantees the same result on every step.

Drilling and fixing the rod brackets

Drill small pilot holes at the marks so the timber does not split, especially near the edge of old treads. Fix the brackets with the screws supplied, snug but not overtightened — brass screws strip easily. On stone or concrete stairs use the correct plugs and masonry bit.

Inserting the rods and adjusting for symmetry

Slide each rod through its brackets and fit the finials. Step back to the bottom of the stairs and look up the flight: rods should look level and equally spaced from the runner edges. If one sits proud, check its bracket depth or whether the pile is bunched underneath.

Handling winders and directional changes

On winders the crease runs at an angle and the runner is folded or cut at the narrow end, so straight rods rarely sit well. The usual approach is to dress the straight steps and leave winders plain, or to use small clips. On a landing, stop the rods at the last riser and restart them above.

Final inspection and safety checks